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2013年3月17日星期日
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FASHION: DEIRDRE McQUILLANtalks to Amanda Pratt about the inspiration for Avocas
autumn look IT COMES AS no surprise that Amanda Pratt, creative director of
Avoca, admits that Paul Smith is her greatest hero. Like him, she doesnt go down
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smith holdall, particularly old fabrics and patterns. Elsa Schiaparelli (who
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with balance, she says, sitting on the floor in her office, knee-deep in
clothing samples. I always start with fabrics because that is my great love, she
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always in love with beautiful old clothes that have some resonance. I dont like
throwing things away. I love the history in fabrics. Her creative
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year C spring 2013 is already out of the way and winter 2013 in progress C but
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exported, mainly to northern Europe but also further afield; the company has
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Smith iPhone 5 Case,000 order for socks, for instance, from Anthropologie in
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countries whose fashion really excites me are the UK and Japan, she says. Her
scrapbooks in which she gathers ideas, images and fabrics for each season are a
key to her design approach. I work on it at night at home, sitting in front of
the fire when I have mental space. And I am completely paranoid about it. If I
cant in the book, I cant do it in reality. The winter collection shown here,
would have started on these pages. I comment on the buttons, always a noticeable
feature, the latest made from old watches. Most people think of a button as
something that just does something up C it is usually the last thing a designer
thinks of, whereas I think of it like a piece of jewellery that adds something
happy and unexpected. Buttons were special to our ancestors and were often a
mark of position. I see them as surprising details. That element of humour and
surprise has endeared her to the Japanese market and Japanese magazines sit on a
rack alongside French Vogue and others. I love the Japanese aesthetic and their
lack of fear of being different, particularly Japanese women. They like naivety
rather than sexuality. We have been exporting there for the past four seasons,
which means that at retail, Japan is selling 1.3 million worth of Avoca product.
Now the giant Itochu Corporation, one of the worlds biggest, which brought Paul
Smith, Vivienne Westwood and Jil Sander amongst others to Japan, wants to open
an Avoca retail shop in the country. Pratt is heading there next month C she is
already taking lessons in Japanese C and if successful, the venture will mark a
major development for the Irish company which has seen a big jump in exports
since September 2009 as well as a 64 per cent increase in online business in the
last six months. Here in Ireland, however, most people associate Avoca with its
caf and shops, the newest of which has just opened in Malahide Castle in north
Dublin. Because of this, we are not really seen as an export business, says
Pratt. I cant think of any others in Ireland doing what I am doing and
exporting. We are not seen in Ireland as being a design-driven house and the
area that I am passionate about is design. There is so much innovation going on
here and to think that another nation like Japan, whose people are so different,
would think that Avoca would be exciting, would be a dream.
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2012年7月11日星期三
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